Plant Sweaters - Free Patterns
These patterns are all worked on double-pointed needles, but can be adapted for straight needles easily enough (add two stitches to each row to account for sewing them up, and wherever I say "knit" for the main body, assume it's stockinette stitch I'm referring to). I've made sweaters for a few different sizes of plant pots now, out of both DK and Aran/Worsted weight yarn. Patterns here will include instructions for both, where possible. My tension is such that I get 5 stitches and 7 rows for an inch with DK, and 4.5 stitches and 6 rows for an inch with Aran/Worsted weight yarn, both using 4.5mm needles. If your tension or needle size is different you may have to play about to get things just right.
For a more rustic look you could try knitting string, but you will need to alter the number of stitches as it's not as forgiving as wool or acrylic yarn.
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sweaters for 5.5cm pots in double knit yarn |
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sweaters for 4" and 3" pots in worsted weight yarn |
If you want to make a vest instead of a jumper, knit one more row once you get to the top and bind off loosely, leaving a long tail. Weave the tail through all your top stitches, draw slightly closed once upon your pot and secure with a knot or a stitch, depending on how fussed you are about removing it at a later date.
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vest version! |
For itty bitty plant pots, 5.5cm diameter and about the same in height:
DK:
cast on 18 sts and divide between your needlesknit 3 rows
increase by 3 evenly (21 sts total)
knit 8 more rows
increase by 3 evenly (24 sts total)
knit 5 rows - this will take you to the brim of your wee pot, 18 rows in all.
At this point, you make the neck of your jumper. You can do this in knit, so that when you fold it back you see purl, you can do it in purl so when folded you see stockinette, or you can finish off in rib or moss stitch, for a bit of pizazz. However you want to do it, knit 7 rows of it, and bind off loosely.
Aran/Worsted:
cast on 16 sts and divide betwen your needlesknit 3 rows
increase by 2 evenly (18 sts total)
knit 6 rows
increase by 2 evenly (20 sts total)
knit 5 rows - this will take you to the brim of the wee pot, 16 rows in all.
I flip and purl for 4 rows for the neck in this weight.
For 3" (7.6cm) pots:
DK:
cast on 22 sts and divide between your needlesknit 2 rows
increase by 4 sts evenly (26 sts total)
knit 7 rows
increase by 4 sts evenly (30 sts total)
knit 7 rows
increase by 4 sts evenly (34 sts total)
knit 8 rows - this will take you to the top of your pot, 27 rows in all.
For the neck I flip and purl for 7 rows, and bind off loosely.
Aran/Worsted:
cast on 20 sts and divide between your needlesknit 2 rows
increase by 3 evenly (23 sts total)
knit 6 rows
increase by 3 evenly (26 sts total)
knit 6 rows
increase by 4 evenly (29 sts total)
knit 4 rows - this will take you to the top of your pot, 24 rows in all.
For the neck I usually flip and purl so that you get a stockinette finish, knit 5 rows and bind off loosely.
For 4" (10cm) pots:
Aran/Worsted:
cast on 28 sts and divide between your needlesknit 2 rows
increase by 6 sts (34 sts total)
knit 8 rows
increase by 6 sts (40 sts total)
knit 8 rows
increase by 6 sts (46 sts total)
knit 8 rows - this will take you to the top of your pot, 29 rows in all.
For the neck, I flip and purl for a stockinette finish, knit 5 rows and bind off loosely.
For 12cm pots:
Aran/Worsted:
cast on 39 sts and share between your needlesknit 2 rows
increase by 3 evenly (42 sts total)
knit 8 rows
increase by 3 evenly (45 sts total)
knit 8 rows
increase by 3 evenly (48 sts total)
knit 8 rows - this will take you to the top of your 12cm pot, 29 rows in all.
For the neck I usually just purl for a stockinette finish because I like to switch yarns at this point for some snazzy contrast. Anyhoo, you'll want to knit 5 rows and bind off loosely to finish.
If this all seems like too much work but you still want lil cute sweaters or vests for your planty friends, I make them to order on Etsy. Blatant promo there.
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